Thames and Medway Defences

History | Thames | Medway: Pre-Napoleonic | Napoleonic | Ring Forts | Island Forts | PFS map

History

The Thames and Medway, with their promise of easy access to London to an invader, the royal dockyards of Woolwich, Deptford and Chatham, and the huge volumes of commercial traffic using the rivers, have always featured highly in defensive plans. The first true artillery fortifications were the blockhouses built by Henry VIII in 1539/40 at Tilbury and East TIlbury on the north bank of the Thames, and Gravesend, Milton, and Higham on the south bank, where the river begins to narrow from the estuary, guarding the Gravesend-Tilbury ferry. The blockhouses are thought to have been D-shaped, 2 storeys high with 25-30 guns. The blockhouses had fallen into disrepair by the time of the Spanish Armada in 1588, when the fear of an invasion from the Netherlands encouraged frantic repairs, with new earthworks at Tilbury and booms across the river.

In 1667, during the Second Dutch War, Admiral de Ruyter raided the Thames and Medway. It is fortunate that the Admiral believed the blockhouses to be well-armed, for in reality they had fallen into disrepair again, and desperate attempts were made to repair them. Instead the Dutch concentrated on the Medway [details TBD]. In the aftermath the government decided to build a much larger Tilbury Fort on the Thames, and embarked on properly protecting Chatham dockyard.

Jock Hamilton-Baillie has written a very good guide on the Evolution of the Chatham Defences, so I'll concentrate on the Thames.

The next invasion scare, from the French in 1778 caused New Tavern Fort to be built at Gravesend in 1780, but a forward line of defence was still needed, and in 1796-9 new batteries were built at Coalhouse in Essex and Hope Point and Shornemead in Kent. The main threats during the Napoleonic wars were the great plagues of moles and black rats of 1806!

In the 1840s more invasion worries about France led to revised batteries at New Tavern and Tilbury Forts, and new forts at Coalhouse and Shornemead based on the polygonal system, the first in this country.

WW II lead to the addition of many anti-aircraft guns at exisiting sites, but also the development of special Maunsell sea forts in the Thames Estuary.


Thames

Tilbury Fort

Built on the site of Henry VIII's blockhouse (and entirely demolishing it) between 1670 and 1684 by a Dutch engineer, Sir Bernard de Gomme, it is an excellent example of a pentagonal bastioned fort, very well preserved, now in the care of English Heritage.

East Tilbury

Batteries.

Coalhouse Fort PFS

Large casemated fort near Tilbury, open to tbe public with extensive web pages at Coalhouse Fort Online, The Tilbury Riverside Project are working to set up a 4 mile Two Forts walk between Tilbury and Coalhouse Forts.

Shornmead

A battery orginally dating from the 1790's, it was redeveloped in the 1850's to a pentagonal plan, one of the first 'polygonal' works in the UK with 13 32 pounders on 3 faces.

New Tavern Fort

Built in the 1780s against the threat of invasion from France. Extensively rebuilt by General Gordon about 1870. The large underground magazine complex is open April to September and most public holidays. For information, telephone 01474 337470. Have a look at these photos

Cliffe Fort PFS

A small Royal Commission fort on the Thames, now owned by Blue Circle Cement and inaccessible. More on Dave Brown's website.

Grain PFS

Grain Fort was built in the 1860's on the eastern end of the Hoo peninsula to control the entrance to the Medway. All surface structures were demolished in the 1960's, so all that remains are the underground passages explored by Sub-Brit in 1999. Nearby is the 1855 Grain Tower Battery, an extensively remodelled East Coast type Martello Tower.

Garrison Point PFS

The other side of the Medway from Grain Fort, a Royal Commission 36 gun battery now part of Sheerness docks, with the ferry access cutting across it. No access.

Slough Fort PFS

A small 7 gun Royal Commission fort on the south side of the river. Still intact and used as stables for a riding school.

Maunsell Sea Forts

Guy Maunsell designed 4 Naval Sea Forts, double pontoon gun platforms with 2 6" guns and a Bofors, sunk in position in 1942 to deter and report back German attempts at mine laying. He also designed Army Forts for anti-aircraft work, each consisting of 7 inter-connected platforms. 3 were place in the Mersey, 3 in the Thames, with 4 3.7" guns and one Bofors. During the war the forts shot down 22 aircraft and about 30 flying bombs. The forts were finally abandoned in 1956, re-occupied for pirate radio in the mid-sixties, and now Roy Bates lives in one in the self-styled Principality of Sealand. 2 Naval and 2 Army Forts remain today, and Frank Turner of Glendale House, Marling Cross, Gravesend, Kent, DA12 5UE organises regular trips out to see them in summer, cost was £22 this year. More details from his booklet, or these pages discussing their pirate radio days (you can even buy a CD!).

Medway - Chatham Defences

Pre-Napoleonic

Before the 1750's, the only defences of Chatham were Upnor Castle, which lost a brave fight against the Dutch raid, Cockham Wood and Gillingham Forts, built in 1669 by Sir Bernard de Gomme in response to the raid, and the Cumberland lines, a set of bastions and parapets which enclosed the dockyard. Gillingham Fort quickly fell into disrepair, and has now vanished. Cockham Wood is largely overgrown, and the lower battery eroded, but some remains can be seen. Upnor Castle is still preserved in the care of English Heritage.

Napoleonic

Fort Amhurst

Started in 1756 at the Southern end of the Brompton lines protecting Chatham Dockyard (see also here), with the last works about 1820, the lower part is now opened to the public by the Fort Amhurst and Lines Trust. The upper part of the site is still closed off.

Fort Pitt

Built between 1805 and 1819 on the high ground of the boundary between Chatham and Rochester, it didn't last long, becoming a hospital for invalided soldiers in 1828, with an asylum added in 1849. Florence Nightingale started the first Army Medical School there in 1860, but by the 1920's the hospital was closed, and the site converted into a school. Today I couldn't see many extant remains when on a mooch round of a Sunday afternoon.

Fort Clarence

Built between 1808 and 1812 to control the east bank of the Medway upstream from Rochester. More details available from David Mapley, though I couldn't find it while driving the area. Its been converted into 4 £500k flats.

Chatham Ring Forts

The 1859 Royal Commission recommended the building of a ring of forts was build round Chatham. Some parts of the scheme, like the Western defences from the Thames to the Medway, were never built. The rest were built between the late 1870's and 1900, some of the latest works in Britain, and were effectively obsolete before completion. 5 land forts (Borstal, Bridgewoods, Horsted, Luton, Darland) and 2 island forts (Hoo, Darnet) and a redoubt were built, the land forts on a polygonal plan, the island forts on a circular one.

Fort Bridgewoods

More details from David Mapley.

Fort Luton PFS

Fort Luton is now a small time model museum, with lots of exhibits for children, but with some details on the fort's history, and reasonable access to the buildings. On Magpie Hall Road, off the A230 2 miles north of the junction 3 of the M2.

Fort Borstal PFS

An afterthought from the Royal Commission, built between 1875 and 1885 by convict labour to hold the high ground in the area. A polygonal design, never armed, with a AA battery in WWII. After many years use as a pig farm for the nearby Young Offenders Institution it was sold in 1991 to a company hoping to make it a museum, but that proved unsucessful, so its likely to be used for accomodation now. No access.

Fort Horsted

TBD

Fort Darland

Demolished.

Twydall Redoubts

Grange Redoubt

TBD.

Island Forts PFS PFS

Fort Darnet and Fort Hoo were built on the recommendations of the 1859 Royal Commission on 2 islands covering the inner navigable channel of the Medway. Originally designed for 2 tiers of guns mounted in a circle, with a boom strung between them, there were many problems with subsidence, and after extensive cost overruns the forts were completed in 1871 with 1 tier, and 11 guns, a mixture of 9" and 7" RMLs, and no boom. The forts were never used in anger, and were disarmed before W.W.I. In W.W.II the forts were used as observation posts, with platforms and pillboxes built on top. Currently both forts are in fair condition. Fort Darnet can be freely visited by boat, though the landing is muddy. Fort Hoo is still owned by the MoD, and landing is not allowed.